The Different Company Rose Poivre The fruit, by contrast, is lush, juicy, ripe and sunny. The aroma of natural oud is distinctively irresistible and attractive with bitter sweet and woody nuances: seriously earthy (and in small quantities, seriously sexy). The word licorice (or liquorice) comes from the Old French licoresse, and originally from the Greek meaning sweet root (it really is, if youve ever chewed a licorice stick). Geraniols used in perfumery to extend the scent of roses, bringing sheer, floral freshness to blends. Lady Gaga Fame It starts a conversation with the "still small voice of calm". The seeds and fruit are edible and used in many cuisines and soft drinks, the bark produces a gum that is used as a stabiliser (gum Arabic) and in the production for printing and ink; and the timber is used in furniture making. Funnily enough, its not strictly a member of the lily family at all, though it is also symbolically a wedding flower, and also a funeral flower. So juicy, you can almost imagine this running down your chin: sweet, slightly tart, and of late cherrys become Miss Popularity in the perfume stakes, with the rise in pretty, girly fruity-florals. Guerlain Tonka Impriale Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur The Arabs used it in perfumery, then the Romans, who created a perfume called Narcissinum with the oil from whats become one of our favourite modern flowers. Neroli (which you can read about under N) is steam-distilled. James Heeley Esprit du Tiger Givenchy Eaudemoiselle de Givenchy See more answers to this puzzle's clues here . Jo Malone London Black Vetyver Caf. One fine day, in perfumery heaven, we will all smell and enjoy cinnamon in heavy doses: Until then, we have to life with the regulations that we have', Dior Dioressence Different ionones have subtly different characters, though, ranging from soft violets in full bloom through the iris/earthy/woodsiness of an ionone variation by the name of methyl ionone. Its also said to be good for memory (as well as for stimulating hair growth), and is used symbolically in weddings, funerals and war commemorations in the UK and Australia: Rosemary for remembrance. Lancme Miracle Intense Cinnamomum cassia even has cinnamon in its botanical name, and is known sometimes as Chinese cinnamon, or even false cinnamon. Rituals No. Guerlain Elixir Charnel Chypre Fatal Rose essential oil can come in the form of rose otto (also known as attar of roses), or rose aboslute. You probably know this as oud (or oudh) which has become an incredibly popular perfume ingredient, in the past few years. Acqua di Parma Colonia Acqua di Parma Frederic Malle Carnal Flower Thierry Mugler Angel Hugo Boss Boss Woman, A wonderful name for a glorious gum resin ingredient thats smokey and soft, luminous and sensual all at once. Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli While a creative director or brand may be involved in conceptualizing, the nose is the one with the training and expertise to actually combine the precise ingredients- noses often . The fruit can be round, or oval, depending on which species youre looking at and the skins can range from yellow or green to maroon. Penhaligons Halfeti In fact, there are two variietes of cardamom: earthy, smoky black cardamom and the fresher, almost minty, eucalyptus-y green cardamom. 3. But if youve ever received (or even grown) one of these bulbs (generally at Christmas), youll know what the name means: this trumpet-shaped flower really blooms when the foliage has died down. Because as with that spirit the juniper berry adds a bracing, exhilarating touch to fragrances. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Cologne Pour le Matin Is there anyone doesnt love the smell of new-mown grass? The perennial lant itself, of course, is gorgeous: tall, with blowsy short-lived flowers that come in a rainbow of shades. Ralph Lauren Ralph Wild Sometimes, though, both the violet leaf and the flower are used together, for a cool contemporary violet effect, taking the edge off violets slightly great-auntishly old-fashioned powderiness. In India, meanwhile, camphor lends its pungency to cooking. Salvatore Ferragamo Signorina In Fiore More likely, these days, its synthesised. Closer to home, in mythology, mischievous nymphs were believed to hide in the petals of peony, giving it the meaning of bashfulness, shyness or shame, in the language of flowers. The zest of this tree's fruit is used to create citrus fragrance notes. Once upon a time, black peppers value was on a par with gold hence the nickname and only the rich could enjoy it. Andrea Maack Smart Its a fantasy note, of course: as perfumer Christine Nagel explains, 'Sugar doesn't exist in perfumery - but sugary facets can be found in synthetic notes called maltol and ethyl maltol'; that sweet and caramel tone is very much used in perfumer, these days. Dior Bois dArgent Its one of those Marmite perfumery ingredients, which people either swoon over or clutch their pearls and scream while avoiding at all costs. Ingredients - The Perfume Society Ingredients Fragrances today are mostly a fusion of ingredients taken from nature - or inspired by nature - together with the synthetics (man-made ingredients) that are used to make them last longer, 'carry further', or stay 'true', when worn on the skin. Pierre Balmain Ambre Gris Byredo Gypsy Water But although cannabis has a famously strong, aromatic, herbal, sometimes nutty or grassy vibe (and occasionally skunky and animalic, even), its probably present in fragrances more for its shock/publicity factor than for any genuine narcotic quality it brings. undecalactone) smells delectably peach-like and edible, and we defy most untrained noses to tell the difference. Used by the handful for a bracing freshness or plucked by the leaf to add just a hint of breeze, mint is a favourite that's here to stay. Max Mara Le Parfum (Although eugenol is also produced synthetically, nowadays.) Perhaps because vanilla is the second priciest spice in the world, after saffron, the vanilla you smell in many perfumes today is synthetic vanillin: clever chemists have worked to mimic the real thing although the most gifted noses will probably tell you that real vanilla is earthier, with touches of treacle and a touch of booziness. 19th Century courtesans in Shanghai used it to dye their underwear a vibrant yellow. But how does it smell? When theyre perfectly ripe, youll know it: the scent is sweet and musky and the juice will almost certainly drip down your chin Calvin KleinEternity Moment An ancient natural remedy, lavenders a flowering member of the mint family well, several members, because different types of lavender are used in perfumery. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio. As an ingredient, camphor can be extracted from the camphor tree (an evergreen which flourishes in Asia), but its also present in rosemary and eucalyptus: they have that same lung-opening, nostril-opening effect. A Bellini cocktail is a must for many thousands of visitors to Venice, who since 1948 have flocked to Harrys Bar in Venice to sip on their speciality: a cocktail of sparkling white Prosecco and white peach puree. We know only that styrene might be an ingredient in any given fragrance because the International Fragrance Association, an industry trade group, publishes an online " Transparency List " of ingredients that perfumers say they use in formulas for consumer products. Xerjoff Shooting Stars Collection Oroville, Do orchids smell? "It's milky and sweet, without being sugary, like vanilla with a hint of caramel. Marc Jacobs Daisy, Can a perfume roar? The 16 Best Perfumes Worn By Celebs of 2023, Divya Gugnani Wants to Reimagine the World of Luxury Fragrance, 15 New Fall Fragrances That Call For Mandatory Spritzing. And in liquid perfumes, a note of incense adds a richness, intensity and a touch of the exotic. Clive Christian no.1 (price- $2150 per oz) Channel grand extrait ($4200 per oz) Shalini Perfume (2.2 oz bottle $900) Chanel No. Guerlain Idylle Sometimes, a perfumer will put them side by side in the same fragrance, to create the equivalent of a fig soliflore. 19 Poudr So although honeysuckles dried flowers are used in sachets and pot pourri, its mostly a synthetic version youll encounter twining its way through perfume compositions. Issey Miyake Pleats Please (Almost all fougre fragrances are targeted at men, by the way.). Guerlain LHeure Bleu Its used to beautiful effect in gourmand fragrances, and blends with woods and earthy notes, too. This nearly zero waste perfume brand also uses 90% recycled and 100% recyclable packaging. Paco Rabanne 1 Million Chanel Coco Noir It can range in colour from light green to black depending on whether its dry or damp - and it smells a lot more beautiful than it looks. And there are other myths linked with geranium: theyre said to grow in pots near witches cottages. Jimmy Choo Eau de Toilette Today, of course, its not the natural stuff that perfumers use, but a huge array of synthetic musks, ranging from sweet, powdery musks to almost metallic versions. Just sometimes, a fragrance is described as being indolic - which is pretty unhelpful if you dont work in the perfume world. Ah, pesto Basil is a delicious herb, when used in cooking and a delicious, aromatic fragrance note, too, with a green, slightly sharp and spicy edge that lends itself really well to mens scents. Yves Saint Laurent Y. Most of us are unaffected though, able to delight in the fresh, spirited joy of petitgrains citrus pleasures. "The appeal of this material is its complexity and variety depending on the treatment of the plant. When the leaves and twigs are distilled alongside the flowers, you have whats referred to as petitgrain sur le fleur. Frdric Malle Une Fleur de Cassie Fresh Love As you might suspect, theres a touch of damp forest floor to this material, too. By Kilian Royal Leather You might think that the name has sexy overtones but not at all: allegedly the passionflower (a glorious blue/purple, twining vine) and passion fruit were named by Spanish Catholic missionaries who saw the flower as the symbol of the Passion of Christ, because the ring around its heart looks like the Crown of Thorns. (And we just love the way that perfumers rise to challenges like this), PS Oakmoss has a near-relation, known as tree moss - Evernia Furfuracea - which grows on pine trees, has a turpentine-y scent before its blended, and is also very highly-prized among perfumers. And somewhat more heavy-handedly in home fragrance, loo cleaners and those taxi-cab car perfumes, Goutal Nuit Etoile We've compiled a few of the strangest perfume ingredients of all time and in which iconic and modern-day fragrance brands you can find them. Paul Smith London Paul Smith Women With its tart/sweetness, meanwhile, the blackcurrant berry is a popular ingredient in todays fruity-florals. 'Virginian cedar has a dry and almost "nervous" effect in a fragrance, whereas cedar wood from the Atlas Mountains is much warmer'. Bacon? Dior Dune But in the perfumers repertoire, its a pricy ($4,000+ a kilo), refined ingredient worth its weight in gold sometimes blended with synthetics that bring out its peachiness, however. Actually, fennel produces TWO types of oil: bitter fennel, and sweet fennel, which can be used as top notes OR heart notes, blending well with lavender, rose, geranium, basil, lemon, rosemary, violet leaf and sandalwood. Nasomatto Black Afgano (It was one of the first juices, or perfumes, to be almost as clear as fresh water in colour, too.) The lasting power is 10 - 12 hours with great projection. L'Oreal is one of the companies that dictate perfume industry stats by owning various famous fragrance brands. The rise (and rise) of fruity scents has given a new lease of life to this fruit, once reserved for the pudding course and jam-making. Crabtree & Evelyn Sandalwood Its the roots of this perennial plant a flowering member of the valerian family which are used in perfumery, as well as in natural medicine and in aromatherapy, to soothe stress and anxiety. The wood itself is used for flooring, carpentry, for crackling log fires but in the scented world, with only the lightest touch in actual perfumes for women, and especially men. Carthusia Numero Uno Perfumes: 77,958 Fragrance Reviews: 1,422,163 Perfume lovers: 907,940 Online right now: 3,643. Goutal Rose Pompon ", Frangipani is a fragrant tropical flower, also known as "West Indian Jasmine.". Amazingly, from those fragile-looking leaves comes a sweet, spicy, smoky, cedar-y scent so powerful it has to be handled with care: patchouli is the most powerful of any plant-derived essence. 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