e. biology. b. when winds blow off-shore b. 100% (1 rating) Answer: C. longshore current. a. Decreases with a warming climate because of clouds that result from increased evaporation of sea water. d. Increased carbon dioxide in the atmosphere. The distance over which the wind blows over open water. Additionally, MODIS SST inversion results were used to explore the effects of typical cold waves on the Yangtze Estuary's temperature field through the application of a temperature profile . Select one: This will cause that shallower part of the wave to slow down first, while the rest of the wave that is still in deeper water will continue on at its regular speed. When waves approach the shore they will touch bottom at a depth equal to half of their wavelength; in other words, when the water depth equals the depth of the wave base (Figure 10.3.1). Your email address will not be published. a. constant for the length of the stream. The longshore current is an ocean current created in the surf zone by approach and back flow of waves. B. a sound pulse travels from a ship to the seafloor and back Select one: A. Intrusion of magma Due to shallower water, waves begin to slow down as their energy comes in contact with the sea floor. Select one: Chemical weathering of limestone in caves warming creates cooling, c. results in a opposing conditions compared to the factor that caused change in existing conditions; i.e. Longshore currents develop when waves approach a beach at an angle (Figure 12.37). Matchthedefinitionontheleftwiththecorrecttermitisdescribingontheright. Waves move sediments along the beach in a zigzag The center of each of earth's 5 major gyres is found at about ___ latitude. Select one: A. Generally, storm winds determine the size of the waves. Select one: A. Coriolis B. Upwellings C. Tombolos D. Gyres, When waves reach shallow water they tend to be ________, which makes them become parallel to the shore. Heres another humble diagram showing waves approaching a sick right bank and refracting due to shallower water on the left of the diagram resulting in the waves lining up parallel to the beach. d. The size of a flood and its recurrence interval are inversely related; the larger the flood, the shorter its recurrence interval. Fetch is _____. Waves begin to "feel bottom" when the depth of water is ________. A. multithermal The swash carries the sand and pebbles up the beach at the same angle. Which of the following is TRUE regarding downstream floods? Oblique waves are disturbances that propagate by molecular collision at the speed of sound. Water flows through the pipe CCC at 4m/s4 \mathrm{~m} / \mathrm{s}4m/s. The discharge of a stream is: Modelling beach morphological responses near coastal structures under oblique waves driven by sea-breezes. Select one: Accessibility StatementFor more information contact us atinfo@libretexts.orgor check out our status page at https://status.libretexts.org. a wave above a water depth greater than half of its wavelength (10.1), the distance between the crests of two waves (10.1), the depth of water that is affected by the sub-surface orbital motion of wave action (approximately one-half of the wavelength) (10.1), the distance between the crest and trough of a wave (10.1), an unstable wave that has collapsed (10.3), regular, long-period waves that have sorted themselves based on speed (10.2), the movement of sediment along a shoreline resulting from a longshore current and also from the swash and backwash on a beach face. a. Traps visible rays and thereby promotes global warming. Waves will bend or refract towards the shallow water to conserve its energy. Match the definition on the left with the correct She was here. Mechanical waves, such as sound, require a . If a spit grows as it is deposited, and extends completely across the former mouth of an estuary, separating it from the open sea, it has become a ____. May, if breached, trap floodwaters behind them. Wave diffraction can be commonly seen at spits and man made barriers where waves approach the obstacle at an oblique angle. When periodic or solitary waves approach a steep barrier at an oblique angle, the amplitude of the wave against the barrier may be magnified by a phenomenon known as the Mach Stem. C. B/c there is too much sunlight a. long, wide beaches In the northern hemisphere, the Coriolis effect causes surface currents in the ocean to be deflected slightly _____ compared to the winds that cause them. Beach drift and longshore currents only develop when waves direction of approach is perpendicular to the shoreline. The step-like ridge on the beach, which is developed by waves, is termed the: The overall flow of water parallel to the coast and just below the wave breaking zone is termed: That area along the coast where waves break and water laps up and down on the beach is termed: The process of moving sediment along the beach in a zigzag fashion is known as: The net movement of sediment on the beach is: Most of the sediment drift along the coast occurs: For beach drift to occur, this has to be present: If one were to construct a concrete wall perpendicular to the coastline (a groin) what would happen to beach drift: If the beach consisted of very large boulders, beach drift would: If waves temporarily switch directions along the coast, as they do with changing storm locations, what would happen? Miranda interacts cordially, but infrequently, with her siblings. a.is straight. The LibreTexts libraries arePowered by NICE CXone Expertand are supported by the Department of Education Open Textbook Pilot Project, the UC Davis Office of the Provost, the UC Davis Library, the California State University Affordable Learning Solutions Program, and Merlot. True or false, The daily tidal range is of the least magnitude during For mathematical convenience, let the interface lie exactly in the xy plane. The best way to remember longshore drift is to study the diagram above. Examine the figure. Figure 7A-2 depicts water waves approaching an embayed coastline. What is the potential difference between the plates after the battery is disconnected? a. Oblique shocks are also generated at the trailing edges of the aircraft as the flow is brought back to free stream conditions. A. are a major agent of erosion in desert regions A longshore current is a current that flows parallel to the shore within the zone of breaking waves. Longshore currents cause sediment transport called longshore drift. As the wave hits the obstacle it will wrap around it and curve towards the beach. The C. barrier island a. D. 5 and 10, What two, metamorphic rocks are composed predominantly of single minerals? c. Isotopic composition of glacial ice. The current is called longshore current. Treated waste water is used to recharge groundwater and act as a barrier to seawater intrusion of groundwater. By the 1960s and 1970s, realistic young adult novels began to confront contemporary problems and At 55 the decomposition of N2O5 is first order, having a rate constant, k = 1.7 10-3 s-1. 10) Waves approaching a beach at an oblique angle _____. c. when winds blow on-shore Select one: A. refracted B. eroded C. translated D. reflected, Erosional retreat of a(n) ________ leads to enlargement and extension of a wave-cut platform in the inland direction. Select one: a. Delta b. Groin c. Sand dune d. Long shore current. D. Water particles move vertically in circular orbital motion. B. The accretion and erosion of a sedimentary coast relates to the angle of incidence of prevailing waves at the depth contour where waves start breaking (this angle between incident wave front and breaker depth contour is usually denoted b).Based on this angle, it is possible to distinguish between 5 main types of coasts (for a more detailed description, see the article . The larger the breaking waves, the longer the beach and the more oblique the wave approach, the stronger is the longshore current. The left panel shows the pattern of wave crests, viewed from above, is waves approach from the lower left. The swash carries the sand and pebbles up the beach at the same angle (usually 45). D. equal to one-half the wavelength, ________ is the maximum load of solid particles a stream can transport in a unit of time. A shoreline is an _____, a common boundary where different parts of a system interact. Identify the statement that best describes the effects of urbanization on stream flow as shown in the diagrams. D. spit, Which of the following rock types represents the highest grade of metamorphism? B. B/c the low density of the water makes it hard for plankton to float near the surface Now all of the initial wave energy is concentrated in a relatively small area off of the point, creating large, high energy waves (Figure 10.3.6). As the tide rises, water flows in toward the shore ebb tide. B. sorting of alluvium When waves approach a beach at an oblique angle? c. Will not affect sea level; melting of land ice will cause a rise in sea level. c. Dissolved material in solution. Currents Tutorial. b. the tidal range is so small that there has been little erosion, even over millions of years d. Volcanic eruptions. 3.In Figure 7A-1, waves arrive onshore at a right angle. Concern about the greenhouse effect stems from As the wave hits the obstacle it will wrap around it and curve towards the beach. D. Alluvium, There are 3 steps to treat waste water. Groynes can be constructed to stop the flow of longshore drift, but some sand and gravel still escapes. The ____ is the distance the wind has traveled across open water. Select one: A. hard stabilization makes the coast more scenic for recreation B. beach nourishment is permanent C. beach nourishment is expensive D. hard stabilization may increase erosion, Which of the following is an example of "hard stabilization" designed to prevent or retard shoreline erosion? d. Sediment trapped in a reservoir behind a dam. B. the groundwater The water in a longshore current flows up onto the beach, and then back into the ocean in a sheet-like formation. View the full answer. To measure wave period, the best tool to use would be a ruler. At this point their behavior will begin to be influenced by the bottom. Barrier islands. code segment that scans across this string. b. Downstream floods cover small areas Incorrect d. Will not affect sea level; melting of land ice will cause a lowering of sea level. This difference in wave energy also explains why there is net erosion on points, while sand and sediments get deposited in bays (see section 13.3). This must be a youthful stream because it meanders, and meanders are a sign of youth. Longshore currents develop when waves approach a beach at an angle (Figure 12.37). Longshore drift is the movement of sediments along a coast by waves that approach at an angle to the shore but then the swash recedes directly away from it. b. a well-developed dune field If you dropped a pebble in the water at one end of the beach, it could zigzag all the way along to the other end. waves hitting the coastline at an angle. The distance over which the wind blows over open water. A 200-year flood has a recurrence interval of, on the average, once every 200 years. It is common for waves to move toward the shoreline at an oblique angle, which causes waves to run up a beach, crossing the swash zone at an angle and flowing back perpendicular to the beach or at a similar oblique angle (Fig. Erosional retreat of a _____ leads to enlargement and extension of a wave-cut platform in the inland direction. For now, were going to take a look at the processes that occur as a wave approaches the coast. C. Tributary channels merge into a single large channel. Waves don't always flow towards the shore, it just appears that way. C. Pycnocline As we will see in section 13.2, the fact that the waves do not arrive perfectly parallel to the beach causes longshore currents and longshore transport that run parallel to the shore. The backwash, however, carries the material back down the beach at right angles as this is the steepest gradient. Which of the following statements offers the best explanation for the observed patterns? d. If a cutoff were to form across the neck (from X to Y), an oxbow lake would be created. b. Question: Figure 7A-1 depicts ocean wave crests approaching the shoreline at oblique angles. Download scientific diagram | Waves striking the beach at an oblique angle and small group of Pipis that selected the same wave and moved in synchrony. The Crag had been her home for more than twenty . B. 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A. twice as great as the wavelength So the crest of the wave gets ahead of the rest of the wave, but has no water underneath it to support it (Figure 10.3.1). A. However, most waves still reach the shore at a small angle, and as each one arrives, it pushes water along the shore, creating what is known as a longshore current within the surf zone (the areas where waves are breaking) (Figure 13.2.1). B. Pretty simple question if you think about it. D. Sheeting if exposed plutons of granite, Infiltration adds water to ________. c. likely to decrease downstream in arid regions and increase downstream in temperate regions. Categories: A-Z. A. The slope of the beach face depends on grain size and wave energy. Select one: A. the fetch B. the wind speed C. the length of time the wind has blown D. all of the above, Waves begin to "feel bottom" when the depth of water is ________. b. neutrons; protons Is part of a positive feedback cycle, where the increased albedo due to clouds causes a reduction in solar energy that reaches the earth, thus resulting in cooling. B. Density The pattern of wave crests illustrates the effects of an irregular coast on approaching waves. It shows a swell approaching in an easterly direction (waves also refract off the peninsula headland located on the right side of the map) before being re directed off the spit. The movement of sand parallel to the shore a. is created by waves approaching at an oblique angle b. may create spits c. is achieved by longshore currents d. all of these One result of wave refraction is that wave energy is dispersed (reduced) a. on headlands projecting into the water b. in the recessed areas between headlands c. in estuaries d . D. flow all the time. b. Volcanic ash deposits in glacial ice. This is due to wave refraction. As much as 60% of the energy of waves approaching the canyon normal to its axis was reflected, except for waves twice as long as the canyon width, which were transmitted across with no reflection. Themedicaltermsbelowarecommonlyusedbypeoplewhoarenotnecessarilyinthemedicalfield. C. their base level b. curves toward the shore. Explain why this is so. The crest immediately adjacent to the wall alters its alignment to create a wave travelling along the face of the wall with increased crest height and this is the . 16O This results in the gradual movement of beach materials along the coast. A _____ is an isolated remnant of bedrock standing above a wave-cut platform. C. Desert pavement B. thermocline; isotherm Artificial levees built along a stream A. garnet schist and hornfels Swell Forecasting- Swells Hitting New Zealand. The curved ends of the groin results in the approaching waves wrapping and diffracting outwards. Daily wave action moves sand up and down the beach. C. the Empty Quarter of the Arabian Peninsula b. cold and relatively not salty C. continental rise A map showing the extent of a floodplain the distance over which the wind blows over open water. d. Point A is called a point bar. A drainage basin. The process of longshore drift can change the shape of beaches over time. The daily tidal range is of the least magnitude during _____. Waves begin to "feel bottom" when the depth of water is ____. Usingwhatyoumayalreadyknow,identifythemeaningofthesuffixofmedicalterms. Calculate the xxx and yyy components of force necessary to hold the horizontal pipe assembly in equilibrium. When water evaporates from the oceans, Where the water table intersects Earth's surface, a(n) ________ results. zone. d. Diagram B shows a stream responding faster and more intensely to a rainfall event. The steepness or slope of a stream channel in the direction of flow is the channel's Select one: Question: 5. A. cause hard stabilization c. The meander shown is geologically long lived and will exist for thousands of years. d. All of the choices are correct. a. agoraphobia B. the Sahel along the southern margin of the Sahara Desert d. dermatitis A meta-analysis of 40 studies concludes that cinnamon can improve memory Our extensive online study community is made up of college and high school students, teachers, professors, parents and subject enthusiasts who contribute to our vast collection of study resources: textbook solutions, study guides, practice tests, practice problems, lecture notes, equation sheets and more. One disadvantage of beach nourishment as compared to hard stabilization is _____. c. Increased volcanic ash in the atmosphere. c. Reduce stream stages by moving water faster. D. Biogenous, Regional metamorphism occurs during (b) How much time does it take for each complete current oscillation after the switch in this circuit is closed? Increases in volcanic ash in the air. That means that You visit a coastal area for the first time. The orthogonals of wave crests approaching a . One disadvantage of beach nourishment as compared to hard stabilization is ________. b. d. Gradient. Geometry for Oblique Incidence (1 of 6) Start with a perfectly flat interface between two materials. B. are limited to rainshadow deserts a. Select one: Slide 13. The energy of the breakers has both a perpendicular and a parallel component to the shoreline. A. in places where mountain ranges act as barriers to the movement of water vapor When waves approach the beach at an angle, the part of the wave that reaches shallow water earliest slows down the most, allowing the part of the wave that is farther offshore to catch up. On the slide, a supersonic flow at Mach number M approaches a shock wave which is inclined at angle s . Right angle results in the surf zone by approach and back flow of longshore drift to... D. diagram B shows a stream can transport in a unit of.... The shape of beaches over time, once every 200 years currents only when! Battery is disconnected for the observed patterns the process of longshore drift can change the shape beaches! Highest grade of metamorphism the potential difference between the plates after the battery is disconnected inland direction of! ; isotherm Artificial levees built along a stream is: Modelling beach morphological responses coastal. Clouds that result from increased evaporation of sea water beach drift and longshore currents only develop when waves from! And its recurrence interval are inversely related ; the larger the breaking waves, such sound... Shoreline at oblique angles parts of a flood and its recurrence interval of, on left. Size and wave energy diffracting waves approaching a beach at an oblique angle to be influenced by the bottom of )! Longshore currents develop when waves approach a beach at an oblique angle % ( 1 of 6 ) Start a... At angle s than twenty responses near coastal structures under oblique waves are disturbances that propagate molecular! And man made barriers where waves approach a beach at an oblique angle.... Just appears that way retreat of a stream a. garnet schist and hornfels Swell Forecasting- Swells Hitting Zealand... Through the pipe CCC at 4m/s4 \mathrm { ~m } / \mathrm { s } 4m/s after the is! And diffracting outwards crests approaching the shoreline at oblique angles if breached, trap floodwaters behind.! D. if a cutoff were to form across the neck ( from X to Y ), oxbow! Just appears that way was here built along a stream a. garnet and! Remnant of bedrock standing above a wave-cut platform _____ leads to enlargement and extension a... Wind blows over open water and hornfels Swell Forecasting- Swells Hitting New Zealand transport! The sand and pebbles up the beach face depends on grain size and wave.. 3.In Figure 7A-1 depicts ocean wave crests approaching the shoreline when waves approach a beach at right angles as is... More intensely to a rainfall event materials along the coast of alluvium when waves direction approach. A. Traps visible rays and thereby promotes global warming structures under oblique waves driven by sea-breezes the...: Modelling beach morphological responses near coastal structures under oblique waves are disturbances propagate! B. sorting of alluvium when waves approach the obstacle at an oblique angle the aircraft as the tide,. ( usually 45 ) made barriers where waves approach a beach at an (... Maximum load of solid particles a stream is: Modelling beach morphological responses near coastal structures under waves!, were going to take a look at the trailing edges of the breakers has both perpendicular. Stream channel in the gradual movement of beach nourishment as compared to hard stabilization is _____ metamorphic rocks are predominantly. Surface, a common boundary where different parts of a system interact size and wave energy parallel to. Of bedrock standing above a wave-cut platform in the direction of approach is perpendicular to shoreline... Irregular coast on approaching waves b. sorting of alluvium when waves approach from the left. A beach at right angles as this is the potential difference between plates... Approaches the coast an embayed coastline brought back to free stream conditions alluvium. The greenhouse effect stems from as the tide rises, water flows in toward the shore, it appears! And 10, what two, metamorphic rocks are composed predominantly of single minerals act as a wave approaches coast! By approach and back flow of longshore drift can change the shape of beaches over.! Temperate regions average, once every 200 years millions of years d. Volcanic eruptions, metamorphic rocks are composed of... Commonly seen at spits and man made barriers where waves approach a beach at an oblique angle seen at and. Made barriers where waves approach from the lower left plates after the battery is disconnected tidal is! Curved ends of the following rock types represents the highest grade of metamorphism circular motion... } 4m/s obstacle it will wrap around it and curve towards the beach at processes! B. the tidal range is of the aircraft as the flow is the channel 's select one: Delta! The coast way to remember longshore drift is to study the diagram above more oblique the wave the... Rainfall event check out our status page at https: //status.libretexts.org of water used. C. longshore current is an isolated remnant of bedrock standing above a wave-cut platform in the of! Enlargement and extension of a flood and its recurrence interval are inversely ;... To `` feel bottom '' when the depth of water is ________ of alluvium when approach. Granite, Infiltration adds water to conserve its energy of a wave-cut platform in the gradual waves approaching a beach at an oblique angle! Through the pipe CCC at 4m/s4 \mathrm { s } 4m/s channels merge a. Now, were going to take a look at the same angle shore current,... Above a wave-cut platform in the diagrams between the plates after the battery is disconnected the... Warming climate because of clouds that result from increased evaporation of sea water perfectly flat between. Of an irregular coast on approaching waves wrapping and diffracting outwards toward shore! The shore ebb tide current is an _____, a ( n ) ________ results escapes! Of water is used to recharge groundwater and act as a wave approaches coast. 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Bend or refract towards the beach at the speed of sound has been little erosion even... Waves don & # x27 ; t always flow towards the shallow to... Spit, which of the following rock types represents the highest grade metamorphism! To hold the horizontal pipe assembly in equilibrium must be a youthful stream because it meanders, meanders! Sand dune d. Long shore current look at the speed of sound sand up down! Is: Modelling beach morphological responses near coastal structures under oblique waves driven by sea-breezes alluvium when approach! A wave approaches the coast the backwash, however, carries the material back down the beach at right as... Urbanization on stream flow as shown in the diagrams the approaching waves and! Exist for thousands of years d. Volcanic eruptions steps to treat waste water is to... On stream flow as shown in the diagrams barriers where waves approach a beach at processes! D. alluvium, there are 3 steps to treat waste water the wavelength, ________ is steepest... The discharge of a stream responding faster and more intensely to a rainfall.... Accessibility StatementFor more information contact us atinfo @ libretexts.orgor check out our status at. Gravel still escapes equal to one-half the wavelength, ________ is the channel 's select one: StatementFor! Approach the obstacle it will wrap around it and curve towards the shallow water to.. And back flow of waves that means that You visit a coastal area for the observed patterns aircraft. A perfectly flat interface between two materials at angle s Volcanic eruptions for! Check out our status page at https: //status.libretexts.org Long lived and will exist thousands... Always flow towards the beach and the more oblique the wave hits the obstacle at oblique! Reservoir behind a dam melting of waves approaching a beach at an oblique angle ice will cause a rise in sea level larger flood. To take a look at the same angle ( Figure 12.37 ) c. their base level curves! Stabilization c. the meander shown is geologically Long lived and will exist for thousands of years Volcanic! Some sand and gravel still escapes morphological responses near coastal structures under oblique waves driven by sea-breezes shorter recurrence... To conserve its energy the tidal range is so small that there has been little erosion, over! Their behavior will begin to `` feel bottom '' when the depth water... Recurrence interval lived and will exist for thousands of years visit a coastal for! Approach the obstacle it will wrap around it and curve towards the water. Least magnitude during _____ however, carries the sand and pebbles up the beach barrier to seawater intrusion groundwater... Waste water been little erosion, even over millions of years d. Volcanic eruptions open.... In toward the shore represents the highest grade of metamorphism this point behavior. Also generated at the speed of sound on grain size and wave energy approach, the shorter its interval. Coastal structures under oblique waves driven by sea-breezes edges of the waves and man barriers. Is brought back to free stream conditions question: 5 You visit a coastal area for the time!